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Francis Davis Millet’s Exploration of Ancient Dress and Themes in the Theater, and in his Paintings and Murals

by Frances Van Keuren and Kristen Miller Zohn 

This article examines the costume studies and artistic practice of Francis Davis Millet (1846–1912), emphasizing his scholarly approach to historical accuracy in depicting ancient Greek and Roman dress. Through archival research, unpublished manuscripts, and period illustrations, Van Keuren and Zohn trace Millet’s evolution from student and stage designer to historical painter and muralist. The study highlights how Millet’s meticulous reconstructions of classical attire informed both his theatrical collaborations, such as the 1881 Greek Play at Harvard, and his later fine art compositions. By contextualizing Millet’s work within nineteenth-century antiquarianism and academic art, the authors reveal his pivotal role in bridging archaeological study and artistic representation in American art.

Frances Van Keuren has had a love of classical civilization from childhood. At Vassar College, she earned her A.B. in 1968, majoring in Greek with a Latin minor. At Brown University, she received her Ph. D. in 1973, specializing in Classical Archaeology. She went on to teach ancient art history at the University of Oregon from 1973-80, and then at the University of Georgia from 1980-2010. After her retirement in 2010, she has continued her research. She has published several books, numerous articles and many book reviews on a variety of topics.

Kristen Miller Zohn received her B.A. in Art History from Salem College and her M.A. in Art History from Florida State University. She serves as Executive Director of the Costume Society of America and is also Curator of Collections and Exhibitions at the Lauren Rogers Museum of Art. Miller Zohn has contributed to the study of art, dress, and visual culture through exhibition and collection catalogues, scholarly essays, and articles, including works on Neoclassical design and Jane Austen’s visual world.

Van Keuren’s article of 2008 in the Magazine Antiques attracted the attention of Miller Zohn, and subsequently, they have worked together on several projects related to ancient costume, the most recent being this article on Francis Davis Millet. Millet’s research on ancient costume included his study of Thomas Hope’ s Costume of the Ancients, a focus of both Van Keuren’s study and her joint work with Miller Zohn.

Some of Van Keuren’s and Miller Zohn’s costume research can be found at:

https://www.19thc-artworldwide.org/autumn08/new-discoveries-unpublished-drawings-by-thomas-hope-and-henry-moses-in-the-gennadius-library-athens

https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s12138-022-00619-5 [article]

https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s12138-022-00619-5#Sec10 [supplementary illustrations]

Van Keuren, Frances and Kristen Miller Zohn, “Francis Davis Millet’s Exploration of Ancient Dress and Themes in the Theater, and in His Paintings and Murals.” Francis Davis Millet Institute. FDMillet.org.

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